What Is A Truth In Lending Disclosure?

May 12th, 2010 by Naoma Doriguzzi View Comments »

A Truth In Lending Disclosure is a to inform the consumer what the cost of your credit is to compare with other loan programs.

The most common asked question I receive is “Why is my annual percentage rate different from the interest rate for which I applied?”

Annual Percentage Rate (APR) : this should not be confused with your note rate.  The APR is the cost of your credit expressed as an annual rate.  Because you may not be paying closing costs, also known as prepaid finance charges ( usually origination fee, discount fee, mortgage insurance, and interest) the APR on the disclosure is often higher than the interest rate on your loan.  This APR is used to compare the true cost of loan programs and give you a more consistent means of comparing rates and mortgages.

Getting to know what is on your credit report

April 23rd, 2010 by John Cannata View Comments »

If you’ve been researching real estate and mortgage possibilities, you’ve seen the term “Credit Score” or “FICO” score. There are three main credit reporting agencies in the US; Equifax, Trans Union, and Experian.  These are the agencies to whom your creditors report any activity on your accounts.  Your credit report shows how much you owe and to whom, as well as whether or not you make your payments in a timely manner.

Each agency in turn uses a formula to determine your overall credit rating, knows as your credit score.  Higher scores indicate better credit than a lower one.  For the time being at least, no one knows how the agencies compute the scores and they aren’t telling.  That means your score will actually vary between agencies.  There has been talk of switching to a uniform equation and possibly even sharing it with consumers.

In the meantime the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) now requires that each agency provide a free credit report to everyone requesting it once a year.  Usually, however, they charge you a fee to see your credit score.  Whether you choose to pay for the privilege or not, you should examine each of your reports annually to check for errors.  You just never know what a third person is saying about your spending activities.  Not only that, but identity theft is rampant and you can quickly determine if someone else is charging items to your accounts, or even opening new ones without your knowledge.

What To Look For

  • Here are the main things to check for accuracy on each of your credit reports:
  • Is your SSN correct?  This is mainly how each of us is identified so it is of the utmost importance that it is correct.
  • Is your name spelled correctly and do they list the right address?  If you’ve moved within the last 2 years, your former address should also be on the report.
  • Does it show your employer and job title correctly?  Again, if you’ve worked there less than 2 years, the position before this one should be listed.
  • Is your phone number correct?
  • Are there payments you’ve made on time that show as late or not at all?  If so, contact the credit reporting agency, tell them about the discrepancy and find out how to send them proof to correct the information.
  • Some creditors only report to one or two of the Bureaus.  If you want the information of your good standing to show on all three, you can either ask your creditor to include them or send the missing agency copies of your up-to-date statements.

This may seem like needless hassle to you, but if you apply for a mortgage only to be turned down for invalid reasons, you’ll realize why it is so important to stay current with your credit reports.  In fact, if you’re even thinking about buying a home, it would be a good idea to send for all three reports before you start looking.  Allow several months so you can get any errors corrected before your mortgage application.  It often takes that long to straighten out mistakes.  The old adage about “better to be safe than sorry” really applies here.  What if you lost your dream home over a foolish mistake on someone’s part?  You’d be heartbroken and doubly so since it didn’t have to happen that way.

Buyers Scrambling as USDA Loan Program Dries Up

April 19th, 2010 by Chris Birk View Comments »

Consumers hoping to use a USDA loan to purchase a home this spring might have to find an alternative.

The government agency runs an increasingly popular home loan program that offers rural homeowners significant benefits — chief among them is the absence of a down payment. USDA loans help low- and middle-income buyers purchase homes in qualified rural areas. Consumers can use these loans to build, renovate or even relocate a home.

Demand for these loans often outstrips supply, but routine funding shortages are usually addressed without the consumer ever becoming aware, let alone feeling a significant impact.

But this year is a different story. Demand has skyrocketed in the wake of tighter credit requirements and the success of the first-time home buyers’ tax credit.That’s left the USDA home loan program basically out of money.

Lenders like Wells Fargo and BB&T recently stopped taking loan commitments, according to Mortgage News Daily. Unlike previous years, there’s no clear sense of when — or if — the program will receive additional funding to keep it afloat. An injection of about $150 million would likely sustain the loan program through the remainder of the year.

Prospective buyers may need to consider other alternatives, like FHA or VA loans. The requirements for USDA loans are usually a bit more stringent than these other government-backed loans. FHA loans require a 3.5 percent down payment, although that may soon change depending on an applicant’s credit score.

Military buyers should strongly consider a VA loan, the only other no down payment loan on the market. Qualified service members and spouses can get competitive rates without having to pay closing costs or private mortgage insurance.

Both FHA and VA guidelines allow qualified borrowers to take advantage of the $8,000 first-time buyers tax credit and the $6,500 tax credit for current owners.

Industry advocates are suggesting that consumers write their elected officials to push for a swift resolution to the growing USDA crisis.

Photo Credit: Sids1

Mortgage closing times – reality check

April 13th, 2010 by Ken Cook View Comments »

Every time the game changes the players change their mechanics. Baseball, hockey, football, golf, and mortgages are all the same. Someone invents a new piece of equipment or changes the rules of the game and the players adjust accordingly.

PALM BEACH, FL - FEBRUARY 25:   Ginette Inelus...Lately there has been much discussion among the ranks of mortgage insiders about the few who advertise “we will close your loan in __ days, guaranteed.” Of course it all sounds great and some of them actually put their disclaimers where they can easily be discovered. Others hide the disclaimer very well or simply “forget” to publish it altogether.

Factually it would be impossible to close every loan in a specified amount of time. Of course we in the mortgage industry are aware of this fact and do not expect the unfortunate mortgage shopper who may fall victim to this practice to know what they are in for. Differing little from the practice of advertising the lowest possible rate what these advertisers are doing is advertising the best possible scenario in hopes to encourage (or should it be “trick”) applicants into believing these companies can do things others cannot.

When reading the fine print on the websites which offer an explanation or disclaimer of the guarantee it becomes very obvious they are advertising something that any mortgage company can do and any lender can do probably a little better. Their guarantee is so tight they will likely never have to make good on their promises.

Shoppers if you want a little truth ask around. Is closing fast even that important to you or is it more important to you to work with a lender where you feel comfortable, not rushed, and not like you have to do all the work for the lender. Likewise if it is important to you to close quickly you can choose just about any mortgage company and make sure you have all of your documentation, evidence of income, employment and housing for the last two years, copies of all of your tax returns, copies of your bank statements and other assets, all ready to provide when they can be collected.

Credit challenged borrowers are almost always going to require more time to close those who have a higher credit score and cleaner employment history so if you are an applicant and you have been late on a payment or two over the last several months you may also expect some minor delays. There is much more work that goes into actually opening, processing and clearing a loan than the majority of people comprehend. As with any line of work the people who are in it daily have the upper hand over those who do it once or twice now and then.

In the end the reality check is this: anyone can close clean loans in as little as ten (10) days from application to close. It’s difficult with the new regulations which require the applicant to wait at least seven (7) days before closing (from the date of application) and if anything needs to be changed in the loan there is another mandatory three (3) day period. So if you want to close quickly it is up to you, just as the disclaimers on a few of those websites say, to have all of your documentation in order and to react immediately when the loan officer asks for addition information if needed.

Anyone can close your loan quickly under the best of circumstances. No guarantee will make it happen any more quickly.

Image by Getty Images via Daylife

Documentation Needed For Loan Application To Purchase

April 12th, 2010 by Naoma Doriguzzi View Comments »

When you meet with your loan consultant you will be asked to bring some documentation to provide to the underwriters for your FHA, VA, or Conventional mortgage.

Basics

  • Drivers License
  • Copy of Social Security Cards for ALL borrowers

Income Documentation

  • Past 2 yrs W-2’s
  • If self-employed ( greater than 25% ownership) or commissioned you will need to provide 2 yrs Federal and Corporate Tax Returns
  • For Pension or Social Security Income copy of Award Letter and evidence of receipt of income for past 2 months(usually bank statements showing direct deposit)
  • Most recent LES or pay-stub within 30 days

Assets

  • 2 most recent bank statements ( all pages)
  • Most recent retirement account statements

Other

  • Addresses past 2 years – if renting provide landlord info
  • Divorce decree/separation agreement
  • All agents name and phone numbers

You may be asked to provide additional documentation depending on your situation.  However this is pretty much the standard list to buy.  By having these documents together for your initial contact, you will be able to expedite the initial application process.

photo credit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/loty/326761635/

How to save thousands of dollars on your mortgage

April 6th, 2010 by John Cannata View Comments »

That’s right, you can save THOUSANDS of dollars. I know, sounds impossible and you are waiting for the punchline or for me to tell you to invest in something that will have huge gains.  Nope!  That’s not my job, but I am sure there are plenty of posts and/or infomercials that will take care of that for me.

Yes it is true that rates are still at an all time low.  But does that mean you need to refinance?  Well, that is not always the case.  What??  A loan officer telling you it may not make sense for you to refinance? Yes and No.  When I am talking with someone about refinancing, I look at many aspects.  Obviously we are going to talk about credit so we can assess your current situation.  This post is not about Credit though.

When I consider someone for a refinance, I look at their current loan balance, the term they want compared to how much time they have left, and their credit score.  Right now, more than ever, your credit score is a major driver of what interest rate you will receive.  So, let’s look at a scenario where you can save yourself thousands of dollars without refinancing.

It may not be possible for you to increase your monthly mortgage payment due to current cash-flow, but if you can that will obviously help.  Most mortgages permit you to make additional payments to your principal at anytime.  Perhaps you receive a larger than expected tax return, or an inheritance, or a non-taxable cash gift.  You could apply this money towards your loan’s principal, resulting in significant savings and a shorter loan life.

Let’s use the following example:

  • Loan Balance $100,000
  • 30 year fixed rate
  • Current rate 6.5%

In this scenario, the borrower would pay a total of $227,542.98.  This is the total of all payments made over the next 30 years.  That equals $127,542.98 in interest payments.  I know that is a crazy number (for reference, this number can be found on your Truth In Lending Statement).

If the same borrower makes a one-time $5,000 payment the first day of year 6, he/she will pay a total of $204,710.75 and pay off the loan in 27 years (324 months).  This shaves off 36 months of payments with a savings of $22,832.23 in interest.  Paying a principal reduction in year 6 means nothing, except it worked into my scenario nicely.  You may make a principal reduction in year 2 or year 12.  The point is to make the principal reduction and you are guaranteed to save on interest.

So… what are you going to do with YOUR tax return this year?

If your principal balance is over $150,000 and you are paying over 6% on your mortgage, you should call your local mortgage consultant.  It costs nothing to find out what options are available to you (in most cases) and could save you a ton of money.

Clock Ticking on First-Timer Tax Credit for Non-Military Buyers

April 2nd, 2010 by Chris Birk View Comments »

Ken wrote a great post a few weeks ago about the soon-to-expire $8,000 tax credit for first-time home buyers.

Now that it’s April, the warning bells and whistles should be even louder — if you’ve been on the fence about purchasing, now is the time to make a decision.

Right now.

Buyers can get under contract by the end of April. Like Ken suggested, finding a loan officer you trust is a key part of that equation.

There’s one important exception to the looming deadline that sometimes gets lost amid all the talk — those who are serving our country.

Members of the Armed Forces who are serving on extended duty outside the U.S. have an extra year to qualify for the program. Military members who meet the criteria must ink a sales contract by April 30, 2011, and close on their home by June 30, 2011.

Military and civilian home buyers alike must meet the program’s signature  requirements, including:

  • You cannot be considered a first-time buyer if you or your spouse owned a home in the last three years.
  • Individuals can’t have annual income above $125,000; married couples who file jointly can’t have an income that exceeds $225,000 per year.
  • The purchase price cannot exceed $800,000.
  • Non first-timers may be eligible for a $6,500 tax credit. You must have lived in your current residence for five out of the last eight years. The deadlines and income and price thresholds remain the same.

It’s also important to note for military buyers that VA guidelines do not prohibit the use of the tax credit with a loan guaranteed by the Department of Veterans Affairs.

Image: Antonin Remond

FHA fees set to increase on April 5, 2010

March 30th, 2010 by Ken Cook View Comments »

For many years the Up Front Mortgage Insurance Premium, established and priced by the Federal Housing Administration, has been at 1.75% of the loan amount on purchases and non-streamlined refinances. Due to increased costs and losses in the Administration a new level for the UFMIP has been established and will go into affect on April 5, 2010.

The UFMIP is not the same as the Monthly Mortgage Insurance Premium but rather is paid in full at the time of consummation of the loan. In other words the date the final loan documents are signed and monies exchange hands.

The HUD Mortgagee Letter 2010-02, issued by David Stevens, Secretary of HUD, on January 21, 2010 gave notice to lenders and the public of this change. Increases on FHA insured loans include an increase to 2.25% on purchases and streamlined refinances and an increase to 2% on HOPE for Homeowners financiers and Home Equity Conversion Mortgages also known as “reverse mortgages”.

Annual mortgage premiums, also expressed as MMIP from above, will not be affected at this time. The decision to increase UFMIP only was based on the effect of raising a home owner’s debt ratio above acceptable levels by increasing their monthly housing cost.

If you are unfamiliar with FHA mortgage insurance it is exclusively to encourage lenders to make loans. FHA mortgage insurance provides lenders with protection against losses as the result of homeowners defaulting on their mortgage loans. The lenders bear less risk because FHA will pay a claim to the lender in the event of a homeowner’s default. Loans must meet certain requirements established by FHA to qualify for insurance.

Three mortgage terms explained, DTI, LTV and APR

March 18th, 2010 by Ken Cook View Comments »

Loan officers seem to have their own language. Somewhere between Klingon and Watusi is found a litany of acronyms which seem to fly from the mouths of mortgage professionals. Naturally, in an effort not to appear uneducated, many of those who hear the terms simply refuse to stop the onslaught and ask, “what’s that mean?”

Far beyond the scope of this short article you should find a detailed education on each of these three common acronyms. Since you are on the metro between M and D try this short read until you have the time to spend hours on the subject. Just call this the “Fast Pitch” version.

Annual Percentage Rate (APR) is likely one of the most misunderstood, and possibly abused, of all three of these terms. Most people understand the interest rate. Usually expressed in a whole number followed by a percentage point as in seven point three seven five (7.375) or some reasonable facsimile thereof the interest rate is the percentage of repayment of the loan. This rate is expressed in an annual rate just to make APR more confusing. Yet another item beyond the scope of this short article is how mortgage interest is front-loaded so make sure you subscribe.

The APR includes not only the annual interest rate as expressed as interest rate but also the total of any closing costs which occurred solely because the borrower was getting a home mortgage expressed in an annualized format over the life of the loan. See what I mean? So if you borrow $100,000 and your closing costs associated with the loan are $3,000 that is a total of three percent. Now divide that three percent by the number of years in the loan, let us say 30,  and you have 0.1 (zero point one). Now add that to your mortgage interest rate, we said 7.375 and you get an APR of 7.475.

Sounds a little more understandable, right? Be careful. Just because you comprehend this very elementary example of APR does not preclude you from being deceived by different terms, hidden costs, discount points and more. As indicated earlier make sure to subscribe and return often for more, make that less, confusion.

Loan to Value (LTV) is very important these days. It was always a more important factor in determining loan risk but many lenders quit caring so much about the accuracy of these figures when the easy money was flying out of the banks and investor’s pockets just a few short years ago. There is really only one method of determining value today which is acceptable to a lender issuing a loan on a real property. For both purchase loans and home loan refinances the key is the appraised value.

In spite of many people’s hopes the sales price can often be higher than the appraised value. In this case the lender will not extend or approve the loan until the sales price and the loan amount are in line with each other. The LTV is strictly an expression of the loan amount compared to the appraised value. For example if the loan amount is $80,000 and the appraised amount is $100,000 that would be an 80% LTV.

No, you cannot pay the rest out of pocket if the appraisal comes in too low. No, you may not pay a higher down payment if the appraised amount is lower than the sales price. You can pay cash but not borrow – at least not from a conventional mortgage lender.

To get the LTV divide the appraisal amount by the loan amount after down payment.

Debt to Income is more of a variable ratio on most loans. The DTI can be offset by higher credit scores, better employment history or even the amount of assets available to the borrower. As a general rule a housing ratio of 31% and a total ratio of 43% is the optimal maximum debt to income ratio. In the event the applicant has a higher credit score and a large amount of reserve liquid assets the automated underwriting engine may approve the loan with a much higher total debt ratio. Even recently loans are AU approved with total debt ratios as high as 55% or more.

Hopefully you have a little better understanding of these three secret mortgage language terms or at least enough to go Googling.

Photo Credit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/myjedilightsaber/3808659603/

Solutions For Your Expiring ARM

March 10th, 2010 by John Cannata View Comments »

ARM vs FIXED RATE

If you are nearing your Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM) expiration date, it’s time to review your options. Naturally, the best option is to no longer worry about your rate adjusting every 6 months to 1 year.  The only product that offers this solution is the Fixed Rate Mortgage.

The Fixed Rate Mortgage comes pretty much the way it sounds: its a fixed rate interest and is guaranteed not to adjust for the life of the loan. No more worries about the next adjustment or payment increase. The Fixed Rate Mortgage is for homeowners who want a fixed monthly bill and plan on staying in their homes for an extended period of time. Fixed Rate Mortgages are the most common choice for home buyers.

A Fixed Rate Mortgage is useful because if you lock in the rate while its low, you’ll never worry about having to refinance your home. Your payment will be fixed for the life of the loan. If rates were to drop significantly from where you are today, the you could still refinance to the lower rate. Being able to make the decision to refinance because YOU want to, is much simpler than completing a refinance because you don’t know what your rate will be on the next adjustment.

There are some drawbacks to a Fixed Rate Mortgage in comparison to the ARM. In most cases, the fixed rate loan starts off slightly higher than the ARM loan. As an example, you may receive a Fixed Rate Mortgage quote for 4.875% but the ARM quote could be 3.875%. In this example, the ARM is clearly lower but the terms of the ARM may show that you are projected to receive in increase of 2% after the 3rd year. Then if could increase another 1% the following year. So, while the ARM rate is lower to begin with, it will ultimately be higher than the fixed rate product after 2-5 years (depending on the market).

An advantage of choosing a Fixed Rate Mortgage over an ARM is that you can choose the terms. You can get as short as a 10 year term, or as long as a 40 year term. The 30 year program is the most popular for newer home buyers.

Another advantage of the Fixed Rate Mortgage is that in the beginning a majority of your money goes towards interest, but it will balance out and eventually more principal will be applied instead of interest.

So, when comparing your mortgage options between an ARM and a Fixed Rate Product, be sure to look at the entire picture. The ARM always sounds more appealing at first, but in the long run, the Fixed Rate Mortgage offers security and a fixed mortgage payment for the life of the loan.